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Asaf Ali|2025 SUSFUTURE 國際永續時尚設計展
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2025-12-09 14:31
|Category:Clothing Design
|Material:Pashmina
|Technique:Sozni embroidery
|Year:2023
|City, Country:India
/Artist 藝術家/
Asaf's passion for textiles began when he was just 15 years old.
He apprenticed under his uncle, who was a collector of the finest old carpets in Srinagar, Kashmir. Growing up surrounded by beautiful textiles and their connoisseurs, he met art historian Jenny Housego.
She was an avid collector and expert in textiles and tribal rugs. Jenny mentored him and shared her deep knowledge of the history of textiles and carpets. This gave Asaf the opportunity to connect the practicality of of production with the depth of heritage. When Jenny set out on expeditions to study how fibre from the Changra goats of Ladakh was spun and woven into Cashmere shawls, Asaf's curious and enthusiastic nature drew him to join her. Decades later, their partnership has stood the test of time, realing a shared vision of revitalising the craft and building innovation while preserving its legacy.
Asaf 對紡織的熱情始於他 15 歲那年。
他師從於叔叔門下學藝——叔叔是克什米爾斯利那加(Srinagar)最頂級古老地毯的收藏家之一。在這樣的環境中成長,Asaf 自幼便被精緻的紡織品與鑑賞家所環繞,也因此結識了藝術史學者 Jenny Housego。
Jenny 是一位熱衷於紡織與部落地毯收藏的專家,亦是該領域備受尊敬的研究者。她成為 Asaf 的導師,與他分享深厚的紡織史與地毯文化知識,使他得以將製作實務的可行性與文化傳承的深度緊密連結。當 Jenny 展開考察之旅,研究拉達克(Ladakh)地區 Changra 山羊纖維如何被紡紗、織造成克什米爾披肩時,Asaf 憑藉其好奇而熱忱的性格,毫不猶豫地加入其中。
數十年後,這段合作關係歷久彌新,見證了兩人共同的願景——在保存工藝傳統的同時,為其注入創新能量,使其重獲新生。
/Description and concept of the artwork
作品描述與概念/
A one-of-a-kind choga (robe) crafted by the artisans of Kashmir Loom, this piece features intricate Sozni embroidery throughout, with fine detailing on the neck and back, and floral vine stripes running diagonally across the rest of the robe. These stripes are interspersed with delicate butis that elevate the garment and lend it a soft charm—subtle yet captivating. The design draws inspiration from a 19th-century Kashmiri robe housed in the Victoria & Albert Museum in London.
The embroidery is executed using the renowned Sozni technique of Kashmir, done entirely by hand with an exceptionally fine needle and silk or cotton thread. Sozni is celebrated for its delicate detailing and precision. It is a highly-skilled and labour-intensive craft that demands exceptional skill and patience, with artisans spending months—sometimes years—on a single masterpiece.
This piece was meticulously crafted by our master artisans, over the course of 12 months. Embroidery of this nature is profoundly demanding, as each creation is brought to life by a single craftsman from start to finish.
這件獨一無二的 Choga 長袍 由 Kashmir Loom 的工藝匠人精心製作,全件覆以繁複細膩的 Sozni 刺繡。領口與背部細節尤為精緻,衣身其餘部分則以斜向延展的花藤條紋構成,其間點綴柔美的 butis(小型刺繡花點),為整體增添溫潤而含蓄的魅力——低調卻引人入勝。設計靈感源自倫敦 維多利亞與亞伯特博物館(V&A) 所收藏的一件 19 世紀克什米爾長袍。
刺繡全程採用克什米爾聞名的 Sozni 技法,以極細針具搭配絲線或棉線純手工完成。Sozni 以其精準度與細膩層次聞名,是一項高度仰賴技藝與耐心的工藝形式——一件作品往往需耗費數月,甚至數年方能完成。
本件作品由資深工藝大師 歷時 12 個月 精心打造。此類刺繡對匠人而言極為嚴苛,每一件作品皆由同一位工藝師自始至終親手完成,將時間、專注與生命力,一針一線地織入其中。