Junichi Arai「MEXICO CHAN-CHAN」|永續時尚之旅

|Category:Clothing design
|Material:Cotton
|Technique:Jacquard tube weave
|Year:1984
|City, Country:Kiryu, Japan

Junichi Arai_SUSFUTURE2024 國際永續時尚設計展

/Artist 藝術家/

Junichi Arai was born in Kiryu, Japan. He learned textile production especially on jacquard weaving for traditional kimono fabrics in his father’s factory. In 1955, he started to product new fabrics for western clothing. Then he established his company “Anthology Co. ltd,” to produce fabrics for fashion designers as like as Issey Miyake in 1979. He also opened his own textile shop “” (Nuno) in Tokyo in 1984.

He held textile exhibition in many places of Japan, USA, Europe, China, etc. and taught textile to students in many countries.

So, he had honored many times including “Honorary doctorate of Royal College of Art” in 2011.

新井淳一(Junichi Arai)出生於日本桐生市。他在父親的工廠裡學習紡織生產,特別是傳統和服面料的提花織造。1955年,他開始生產西式服裝的新面料。隨後,他於1979年成立了自己的公司“Anthology Co. Ltd”,為像三宅一生這樣的時尚設計師生產面料。他還於1984年在東京開設了自己的紡織品店“布”(Nuno)。

他在日本、美國、歐洲、中國等地舉辦了許多紡織品展覽,並在多個國家教導學生紡織技術。因此,他多次獲得榮譽,包括2011年的“皇家藝術學院名譽博士學位”。

Perspectives on Tradition and Future, Sustainability and Fashion, and Life.
關於傳統與未來、永續與時尚生活的看見

Junichi Arai was standing on the viewpoint that we have to learn much more thinking of our predecessors on textile tradition with culture behind of it to create new materials. On the other hand he said sometimes, we should go ahead to the future by using new technology and materials to renew tradition. So, he had near 40 patents by his new textile products.

He invented also about some production methods to make clothing with minimum waste of fabrics and yarns, as like as triangle shape warp knitted shawl, skirt with elastic west, sewing less T-shirt (Through-head garments), etc.

新井淳一認為,我們必須學習前人對紡織傳統及其背後文化的深刻思考,以創造新材料。另一方面,他有時說,我們應該使用新技術和材料來革新傳統,邁向未來。因此,他擁有近40項新紡織產品的專利。

他還發明了一些生產方法,以最小化布料和紗線浪費來製作服裝,例如三角形經編披肩、彈性腰帶裙子、無縫T恤(穿頭服裝)等。

Junichi Arai_SUSFUTURE2024 國際永續時尚設計展

The Concept and Description of the Work關於參展作品的創作動機與設計理念

This garment made into tube structure with reversible figured double weaving by using black and white cotton threads in 1980s. It has one hole for head and two holes for arms which are made on weaving process. And it was made connecting part of two layered fabric of front and back by plain weave on the both side of neck hole. Then cut off the tube fabric into each piece about 110cm length from shoulder line and bottom. And it will shrink to fitting human body by washing, because those threads are twisting hard. It has unique patterns imaged from native tribal picture of Mexico and geometric stripes. So, it was called "Mexico Chan-chan" by the stuffs of his company, Anthology. "Chan-chan" was a kind of everyday wear as like as vest that has cotton fillings between outer fabric and lining for wearing winter time in Japan. 

這件服裝是在1980年代使用黑白棉線通過可翻轉的圖案雙重織法製成的管狀結構。它有一個頭部的洞和兩個在織造過程中製作的手臂洞。前後兩層布料的連接部分在頸洞的兩側用平紋織法連接,然後將管狀布料從肩線和底部各剪成約110厘米長的片段。由於這些線繩纏繞得很緊,洗滌後會縮小以適合人體。它具有從墨西哥原住民圖畫和幾何條紋中汲取靈感的獨特圖案。因此,它被他公司Anthology的員工稱為“墨西哥Chan-chan”。“Chan-chan”是一種日常穿著的衣物,如同背心一樣,在外層布料和內襯之間填充棉花,以便在日本冬季穿著。