Monika Zabel「TRANSMATADORA」|永續時尚之旅

|Category:Clothing design
|Material:Cotton/Linnen (outer), Silk (lining)
|Technique:Sewing, crochet, lether application, natural dying
|Year:2022
|City, Country:Hamburg, Germany

Monika Zabel_SUSFUTURE2024 國際永續時尚設計展

/Artist 藝術家/

Born in Hamburg. Studied in Kiel, São Paulo, Berlin.

PhD Energy and Resource Economics, TU Berlin 1996. Assignments in 55 countries on five continents.

Studies in Sustainable Design at FIT, New York 2016. Textile and Fashion artist, sustainable designer/curator, speaker and advocate of a life in harmony with nature.

Exhibitions worldwide since 2015, individual and group in Italy, Latvia, Germany, Korea, Taiwan, USA. Lectures in USA, Germany, Portugal, Taiwan and Korea. Several international artist awards.

2024 The Textile Universe: Art, Fashion, Design. Interdisciplinary lecture at FBA-UP, Portugal

2022 to date Art of Textile, Interdisciplinary Lectures, Harbour City University, Hamburg.

出生於漢堡。曾在基爾、聖保羅和柏林學習。1996年於柏林工業大學獲得能源和資源經濟學博士學位。曾在五大洲的55個國家工作。2016年於紐約時裝技術學院修讀可持續設計課程。是一位紡織和時尚藝術家、可持續設計師、策展人,並主張與自然和諧相處的生活方式。自2015年以來,作品在意大利、拉脫維亞、德國、韓國、台灣和美國等地展出。曾在美國、德國、葡萄牙、台灣和韓國進行講座。獲得過多個國際藝術獎項。2024年在葡萄牙FBA-UP大學舉辦《紡織宇宙:藝術、時尚、設計》跨學科講座。自2022年至今在漢堡港口城市大學舉辦《紡織藝術》跨學科講座。

Perspectives on Tradition and Future, Sustainability and Fashion, and Life.
關於傳統與未來、永續與時尚生活的看見

We have to take lessons from our tradition and combine them with current research to retrieve lessons for our future. One lesson for all in fashion- as consumers and producers- is what late Vivienne Westwood described powerfully: buy less, choose well, let it last. This appears against our economic system, but transports the idea of sustainability and conscious use of natural, non-renewable resources and the increasing damage caused by the waste of overproduction. The dimension of textile waste has increased to an extent that it is suffocating the world We have to think in circular systems making best use and re-use the precious resources.

我們必須從傳統中汲取教訓,並將其與當前的研究結合起來,為我們的未來尋找教訓。對於時尚界的所有人——無論是消費者還是生產者——其中一個重要教訓是由已故的維維恩·韋斯特伍德(Vivienne Westwood)生動描述的:「少買點,但選擇好的,讓它持久。」這與我們的經濟體系相抵觸,但傳達了可持續性和對自然、不可再生資源的慎重使用,以及過度生產造成的日益嚴重的浪費所造成的損害。紡織廢棄物的規模已經增加到一個極端,使世界窒息。我們必須思考循環系統,充分利用和重複使用珍貴的資源。

Monika Zabel_SUSFUTURE2024 國際永續時尚設計展

The Concept and Description of the Work
關於參展作品的創作動機與設計理念

The work Transmatadora plays with the symbolism of and assignment to femininity and masculinity, together sets the tone of a contemporary fluid tone of this fashion outfit. The inspiration comes from bullfight and the torero, in most cases a persona with male attributes. Art history examples in historic paintings, like in works of Goya. There were few famous toreras known in history and present.  

Typical clothing elements are for ex tight trouser with high rise waist, short suspenders worn bottomed outside, short jackets with ornaments and embroideries, often in bright colors and gold. Transmatadora consists of pink and orange trousers (colors of royalty for men in the past or the church), a green short cape. Intensive red is the colour of lining of cape and trousers, the color of blood, and silk, both noble materials.). Main materials are re-designed cotton (mid-century, UK), silk, leather. Textile design trousers by Heidi Bernstiel. (Photography Konstantin Odin)

作品《Transmatadora》玩味著女性和男性象徵性及歸屬的符號,結合了這套時尚服裝的當代流動感。靈感來自於鬥牛和鬥牛士,通常是一個帶有男性特徵的角色。藝術史上的例子可以在戈雅的作品中找到。在歷史和現代中,知名的女性鬥牛士很少。典型的服裝元素包括緊身高腰褲、下面穿著外露的短吊帶、裝飾和刺繡的短夾克,通常是鮮豔的顏色和金色。《Transmatadora》由粉紅色和橙色的褲子(過去男性或教堂的皇室色彩)、綠色的短披肩組成。鮮紅色是披肩和褲子的襯裡的顏色,代表著血液的顏色,也是絲綢的顏色(兩種高貴的材料)。主要材料包括重新設計的棉布(20世紀中期,英國)、絲綢、皮革。褲子的紋理設計由 Heidi Bernstiel 設計。(攝影者 Konstantin Odin)