Kohai Grace「MAIREHAU」|永續時尚之旅

|Category:Textile design
|Material:Muka (flax (phormium tenax) fibre), natural dyes (tree barks), albatross feathers, houheria (lacebark)
|Technique:Whatu twining, weaving technique unique to Aotearoa, New-Zealand
|City, Country:Hongoeka, Plimmerton, New Zealand, Aotearoa

Kohai Gracei_SUSFUTURE2024 國際永續時尚設計展

/Artist 藝術家/

I am an indigenous Māori from Aotearoa, New-Zealand, a weaver, and fibre artist. I learnt how to weave in 1986 from a family of weavers who have held on to the artform for many generations.

Thirty plus years later, I am still producing artwork utilizing various native plant materials for weaving and natural dye methods. 

Over the years I have produced work for numerous exhibitions both nationally and internationally, had my textile work included in fashion shows, gaining a 2nd runner-up Supreme Award for the New Zealand Westside Stylepasifika show in 2009. 

我是來自紐西蘭奧特羅阿的原住民毛利族人,是一名編織工藝家和纖維藝術家。1986年,我從一個世代相傳的編織家庭學習了編織技藝。三十多年後,我仍在利用各種本地植物材料和天然染色方法創作藝術品。這些年來,我的作品在國內外的許多展覽中展出,並被納入時裝秀中。2009年,我的紡織作品在紐西蘭Westside Stylepasifika展會上獲得了最高獎項的第二名。

Perspectives on Tradition and Future, Sustainability and Fashion, and Life.

My work draws inspiration from the historic woven cloaks and garments   of Māori held in museums and private collections throughout New Zealand, Aotearoa. As did the old, this work utilizes harakeke (phormium tenax) as its primary material and other materials of te taiao (natural environment). This is my way of staying connected to my tupuna (ancestors) and to nature. I make garments to be worn that are strongly based on tradition but presented in a modern way. This is what ensures the traditions are kept alive; they become timeless, surviving into the future as long as the practice is continued.

我的作品靈感來自於保存於紐西蘭奧特羅阿各地博物館和私人收藏中的毛利族歷史編織斗篷和服裝。與古代作品一樣,這些作品主要使用亞麻(phormium tenax)和其他來自自然環境(te taiao)的材料。這是我保持與祖先(tupuna)和大自然聯繫的方式。我製作的服裝可供穿戴,堅守傳統但以現代方式呈現。這樣可以確保傳統得以延續,變得永恆,只要這種實踐繼續下去,它們就能存活到未來。

Kohai Gracei_SUSFUTURE2024 國際永續時尚設計展

The Concept and Description of the Work關於參展作品的創作動機與設計理念

The work is based on the traditional cloak and garment weaving of the indigenous Māori people of Aotearoa, New Zealand, which predominantly used fibre extracted from the NZ harkakeke (phormium tenax) as its medium. This fibre is called ‘muka’.  

Like the customary weaving of old, and using the prepared muka warps and wefts, this work uses an ancient weaving /twining technique called ‘whatu aho-rua’ which requires two threads (weft), and the hands to weave the warp together to form the body of the garment. It is not loom weaving, but a frame to hold the work in place is required, and this allows the hands to weave across in horizontal lines. 

This work titled ‘Mairehau’ is made entirely of natural materials, hand prepared and woven. It is inspired by the historic cloaks of old; in particular, the kahu huruhuru (feather cloak) and the kahu kurī (dogskin cloak). 

這項作品基於紐西蘭奧特羅阿的原住民毛利族的傳統斗篷和衣物編織,主要使用從紐西蘭亞麻 (phormium tenax) 中提取的纖維作為材料。這種纖維稱為「muka」。

如同古老的傳統編織一樣,使用準備好的muka經緯線,這項作品使用一種稱為「whatu aho-rua」的古老編織/捻繩技術,這種技術需要兩根線(緯線)和雙手來將經線編織在一起,形成衣物的主體。這不是使用織布機編織,但需要一個框架來固定作品,這樣可以讓雙手在水平線上編織。

這件名為「Mairehau」的作品完全由天然材料手工準備和編織而成,靈感來自於古老的歷史斗篷,特別是kahu huruhuru(羽毛斗篷)和kahu kurī(狗皮斗篷)。