Deb Donnelly「RAUMATI TADEAI BLUES」|永續時尚之旅

|Category:Textile and accessory Design
|Material:Vintage silk top and skirt, jacquard woven and naturally pleated
|Technique:Natural dyed indigo and shibori zome techniques
|Year:2023
|City, Country:Kapiti, Wellington, New Zealand

Deb Donnelly_SUSFUTURE2024 國際永續時尚設計展

/Artist 藝術家/

Aotearoa New Zealand textile artist Deb Donnelly has an interdisciplinary art and design practice.

As a NZ trained artist and educator I collaborate with international artists in sustainable practices nationally and internationally through joint residencies, workshops and kaupapa (projects). Donnelly collaborated with Taiwanese artist Jui-pin Chang and showed new work at Taipei Fashion week in 2023 intersecting traditional craft, wearable arts and fashion. Asia Pasifika exchanges have been central to my approach to making art with a sense of identity and materiality reflecting the culture and resources found on each site. Ongoing research on my Eurasian ancestral roots, are now embedded in NZ migrant themed art, collaborative film production, dyeing natural textiles and surface design applications. I use media tools from stencil to digital to craft skills in embroidery, felting, eco print and natural dyeing. This sustainable arts practice allows me to document experimental themes and processes alongside traditional culture and contemporary textiles.

紐西蘭紡織藝術家Deb Donnelly擁有跨學科的藝術和設計實踐。作為一名紐西蘭訓練有素的藝術家和教育工作者,我通過聯合駐地、工作坊和kaupapa(項目)在國內和國際上與國際藝術家合作,從而參與可持續實踐。Donnelly與台灣藝術家張睿彬合作,並於2023年在台北時裝週展示新作品,交織了傳統工藝、可穿戴藝術和時尚。亞太地區的交流一直是我進行藝術創作的核心,反映了每個地點的文化和資源,以及身份感和物質性。對我歐亞祖先根源的持續研究現已融入紐西蘭移民主題的藝術、合作電影製作、天然紡織品染色和表面設計應用中。我使用從模板到數字的媒體工具,以及刺繡、氈毯、生態印花和天然染色的工藝技巧。這種可持續的藝術實踐使我能夠在傳統文化和當代紡織品之間記錄實驗性主題和過程。

Perspectives on Tradition and Future, Sustainability and Fashion, and Life.
關於傳統與未來、永續與時尚生活的看見

Clothing, textiles and accessories which allow the body and mind to explore all my technical interests with connections to everyday uses; work, play and social well-being while collaborating with the environment is my idea of sustainability and future flow.

Since 2004, my practice in Aotearoa has combined fashion and textile art ecologies including WOW world of wearable arts for students to test their original concepts.

Fashion ecology can be expressed as: respect for traditional craft skills, gauge environmental impact, ‘circular systems’ of sourcing sustainable renewable materials, using shibori resist methods, plant dyes and animal and protein fibre technologies. Together, these  represent a cultural bridge between fashion designers and textile artists with the  intention to make mindful garments for daily life and our future well being.


服裝、紡織品和配飾,允許身體和心靈探索所有我對技術的興趣,與日常使用、工作、娛樂和社會福祉建立聯繫,同時與環境合作,這是我對可持續性和未來流動的理念。
自2004年以來,我在紐西蘭的實踐結合了時尚和紡織藝術生態系統,包括WOW世界時尚藝術的學生,以測試他們的原創概念。
時尚生態可以表達為:尊重傳統工藝技能,評估環境影響,循環系統的採用可持續再生材料,使用絞紋抵抗方法、植物染料和動物蛋白纖維技術。這些共同代表了時尚設計師和紡織藝術家之間的文化橋樑,意圖為日常生活和我們未來的福祉製作懷有思慮的服裝。

Deb Donnelly_SUSFUTURE2024 國際永續時尚設計展

The Concept and Description of the Work關於參展作品的創作動機與設計理念

Indigo dye has been valued around the world since ancient times for its natural blue colour. Cross cultural Asian and European themes are used in my work. Three layers of tadeai teal blue silk were hand dyed from local Kapiti organically grown indigo, persicaria tinctoria. The hand dyed indigo on silk pleated upcycled jacquard weave garments and silk satin bias cut shift garment caters for a range of sizing and modern minimalist styling options for the wearer. Indigo fresh tadeai dyes as teal blue on silk scarf which uses shibori zome resist dye design methods. These methods include fresh indigo leaf contact print which have become popular for textile artists globally.

藍靛染料自古以來就因其天然的藍色而受到全世界的重視。
我的作品中使用了跨文化的亞洲和歐洲主題。三層由當地卡皮蒂有機種植的藍靛染成的桃石綠色絲綢,是由花樣機織服裝和絲緞斜裁剪的外衣製成的。手染的藍靛在絲綢上,通過摺紋回收的提花織物和絲緞偏剪裁的外衣,為穿戴者提供了多種尺寸和現代極簡風格的選擇。用藍靛新鮮的桃石綠色染的絲巾使用了絞紋染和染色設計方法。這些方法包括新鮮藍靛葉的接觸印花,已經在全球的紡織藝術家中變得流行。